This site describes some of the highlights of our visit to Paris from January 8 to January 31, 2019. The idea was to go to Paris in the off season, when the city would not be crowded with tourists and we would have an easier time getting around and seeing what we wanted to see. One of Stephanie’s lifelong ambitions has been to spend an entire week at the Louvre studying the antiquities of Mesopotamia. My goals were more free form, but I wanted to check out the jazz clubs in Paris and sit in with the musicians at some of the many jam sessions there.
Ever the expert travel agent, Stephanie booked an AirBnb apartment in the heart of the city, just a few blocks from the Louvre. Central Paris is relatively small, and there are many great museums, restaurants, jazz clubs, and shops within a one-mile radius of that apartment. As on our previous European trips, Stephanie spent a lot of time reviewing French, and as usual she was well equipped to engage in simple, practical conversations with the locals. Pour moi, it was a lot more sketchy, for although I have studied French both in high school and college, I was not a good student and my knowledge is quite rudimentary. I practiced a little before we left, but I could really only croak out a few simple phrases.
Our apartment
Our AirBnB apartment was right in the center of Paris, just a few minutes walk from the Louvre, Notre Dame, and many other interesting places. The building dates from 1669. Of course, it has undergone extensive remodeling over the years, and now the interior is quite modern. You would never guess its age, except for the original ceiling beams still visible.
We had a good laugh at the tiny elevator, barely big enough for the two of us.
Our host, Phillipe, was gracious and welcoming. He spoke English well enough to get us oriented in the apartment. Before we left for home, he invited us upstairs to his elegant apartment for drinks and conversation.
The neighborhood was vibrant, with lots of restaurants and bars. On weekends, the streets were filled with revelers.
The Paris Métro
Our main source of travel was the Paris subway system, Le Métro. The trains go everywhere in the city, and they are affordable and prompt. We never had to wait more than a minute or two for a train.
Weather
January is the worst month of the year for Paris weather, which is why there are many fewer tourists than at other times. Nevertheless, the weather was about the same as Eugene or Seattle in January. The temperature ranged from mid thirties to upper forties, with most days overcast. We had some light showers, but overall there was not too much rain. We did see occasional sun, and one day the temperature dropped below freezing and we had some snow. We did a lot of walking around and managed to stay comfortable most of the time.
Berets and other hats
For men, the most popular hat seemed to be the flat cap, also called a newsboy cap.
We saw a lot of berets, mostly worn by women. The berets appeared in all sizes and many of them in bright colors. The few men who were wearing berets were older gents. Although I brought along both a flat cap and a beret, I prefer the beret, so I wore it most of the time. Stephanie purchased a red one with a matching scarf and looked really sharp.
Topic index
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Paris 2019 